Runit Dome rises ominously over the southern tip of the island. Rusted metal cords are still piled in the jungle, and bright green copper shards adorn the ground like confetti. Forts overgrown with shrubs dot the shorelines, the surge crashes over colorful copper cables sticking out of the sand. #ATOLL SOFTWARE CRACK CODE#The Americans knew the dome by its code name: “Yvonne.” Out of 43 bomb tests in Enewetak, they detonated 14 hydrogen bombs - all with cute noms de guerre like “Cactus,” “Fig,” “Rose,” and “Butternut” - here on Runit, an island in the atoll that’s long, thin, and vaguely shaped like a seahorse. But with her husband Mores, sons Ahti and Aapo, niece Milan, two kittens, three dogs, a pickup truck, a Geiger counter, and food supplies to last a few months, she disembarks from a boat that’s also bringing provisions for about 600 people from Majuro, the Marshall Islands capital, to Enewetak’s main island. It isn’t a place where most mothers would take their children. It’s the most remote atoll within the Marshall Islands, with Guam thousands of miles to the west and Japan thousands of miles to the north. But the atoll consisting of 40 islands saw almost twice as many atomic tests. nuclear testing after World War II, Enewetak, was never famous enough to have a swimsuit named after it, like better-known Bikini. One of the two atolls handpicked for U.S. Beaches are fringed not by coconut palms but Australian pines, trees praised for soaking up salt-spray and airborne radionuclides. As you get closer, the sun fades behind clouds and the islands are shrouded in mist. You can’t see the atoll until you’re just miles away as it’s only feet above sea level. It takes three days on the open sea to journey from the Marshall Islands capital to Enewetak Atoll.
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